The 10 Commandments of Thrifting
Learn the biggest thrifting mistakes to finally stop making them.
I cannot tell you how many times I've heard people say: “Used clothing? Not for me, no way!”. It’s dirty. It’s yucky. Leave it for the poor. We don’t need this. Used clothes have evil spirits from the past wearers. Even though I can’t attest to the apparitions (yet), the cleanliness tends to be questionable, so do come prepared. But how come there's an ever-growing cult of thrifters and evangelizers, like myself, that find joy in scavenging through junk that used to belong to other people?
In a world where Vogue has become so uninteresting and designer goods blasé, we tend to look at the past's glory in search of new meaning. Secondhand allows me to reencounter unique finds from fashion's golden years and techniques that aren't done anymore. Diving into the past of Limoges china, Porcelain hand-painted lamps, and cross-stitch collars warms my heart and beautifies my life in a way that is true to what I believe in.
So here’s how to get it right, especially when it comes to clothing.
Take it one step at a time
I was once paralyzed by my shopaholic ego and the morbidness of things with unclear providence, so my entryway to this market was as a seller, not a buyer, getting rid of luxury impulses at TheRealReal. Everything I listed sold so fast that I ended up in another tax bracket that year. While I was relieved to see it all go, I couldn't help but scroll through their website. Designer purses and watches sell for an arm and a leg, but most of their clothes and home goods are priced reasonably. In this process, I found a set of 12 Villeroy & Boch crystal goblets, exactly like the ones in my parent's home, for $100, less than a quarter of their original price. So I bought them for nostalgia purposes.
Since my first TheRealReal purchase, I have come a long way and even worked as a buyer at a trademark thrift store. Nothing of this would have been possible if I hadn't found a territory in which I would feel comfortable (TRR is notably one of the best-decorated stores in the country). Home and luxury goods are the most seamless gateway drugs for the uninitiated, followed by outdoor Flea Markets, then secondhand chains and donation centers for the now acclimatized.
Know exactly what you are looking for (never “just browse”)
The amount of merchandise is enough to drive any sane person crazy. It would take hours to go through everything. These stores are nothing but an agglomeration of whimsical shiny objects dangling for your attention. YOU WILL find something(s) you like and end up with a bag full of quirks to take home. You'll probably wear your "finds” at night or the day after, but soon they'll become more cluttered in your life.
When thrifting, make sure you just purchase items that you are in current, actual, real need of. It’s useful to take a shopping list if you have the discipline to follow it, so you can search for specific categories. In general, secondhand stores are organized differently, by size and kind of garment. When I was searching for larger pants to fit my baby bump, I went straight to the skirt and jeans sections and couldn't be happier with my options. If it’s too big or too small, too bad, there's only one of each. However, if you are flexible, you’ll find an extensive collection to sift through, way larger than one specific retail store. Which is pretty neat.
While browsing is entertainment and buying stuff can be enjoyable, it's important to be mindful of your needs and budget. Check out my Thrift Bundles, where I assess your style and hunt for what you need. If you're not sure what you need, it may be better to wait for the right opportunity to arise.
Learn how to shop for free
As I frequently mention in other articles, you can shop with credit from reselling your clothes to shops with trade-in options (if in a good state, of course). If you're in America, there's a good chance you're close to a Crossroads or Buffalo Exchange, two chains that buy every day with no need to schedule a time to sell. Whatever the store decides to take in can be applied toward your purchase.
This significantly reduces your environmental footprint and slowly reeducates the market on how to consume in a loving, conscious way too. It’s not a new idea, so I can't believe that every store doesn't have a buy-back model yet. Oh, yeah… most stores couldn’t care less about our future *teardrop*.
Don't buy just because it is designer
Quoting Cher Horowitz right before lying down on the wet asphalt of a parking lot: “Oh no, you don't understand! This is an Alaïa!”. Just like the robber in Clueless didn't change his mind, most people won't be able to tell if your red tube dress has a designer tag. And as the saying goes, the ones that do care, just don't matter. Be sure you're buying something you can't live without and not because it has some fancy label and a price below retail.
I cannot name how many people I've seen buy preschool-looking tie-die t-shirts because “it’s Colina Strada” or overpriced nylon sweat-inducing vests because of that rubbery red Prada stripe.
Love > Label.
Outsmart the hipsters
The growing demand for cool fits has inflated prices, especially in hipster gentrified areas like Venice Beach, Melrose, and Silverlake, to quote a few LA hotspots. Resellers shop around for styles from the 80s, 90s, and even recent trends and sell unknown vintage-looking labels for triple digits, cashing in a sweet margin. The overpriced items you find were most likely bought in a Goodwill (or worse) and what you are paying a premium for is the experience of shopping in a place with a cool vibe, match lattes, or even a dispensary. Which is OK, as long as you know this.
Secondhand is still synonymous with CHEAP: thrift, donation stores, and estate sales. Vintage has a reputation for being pricey, but it only exceeds retail figures in rare cases such as collectibles or Birkin bags. In the same way my crystal goblets sold for a bargain, everyday fits, fast fashion, and mall-bought ready-to-wear go for nothing at second-hand stores. You can find so much from Zara, Levi's, H&M, Urban Outfitters, and similar for under $20.
A few things are worth spending extra cash on. 20-year-old leather jackets, salvage jeans, and parachute jackets are easily found for under $50, you just have to know where to look. If you are in love with a specific item but think the asking price is too high, take a foto and search for similar online (or, of course, call me and I’ll scout the coolest stuff for you).
Inspect closely
Here’s what you have to observe (watch out!) when deciding to buy something:
The inner crotch and armpits may obscure stains
Sift your fingers through the buttons to make sure they are all there
Open and close the zippers several times at different speeds to confirm it’s not broken
Tap pockets/see if they are empty before putting your hand inside. You never know what you will find.
Unfold sleeves and collars to scan for discoloration. White tends to yellow and color tends to fade.
I am not saying a garment has to be perfect, but you don’t want a surprise when you get home. If possible, always try clothes on because often the body will show you different angles of light that can surprise you.
NEVER skip the smell test
The most common spirit that haunts second-hand stores is a ghost that takes over our olfactory system. When shoppers fall in love with a garment, their ability to ignore nasty fumes is merely temporary. Don't get fooled, bad smell is an unfixable issue and probably the reason why the past owner decided to get rid of it. First-time thrifters often believe they'll be able to dry-clean a solution to the world's problems. Sadly, it’s not the case.
Sniff everything and just buy items that can be machine-washed several times. The ability to remove future smells is also a must.
Don't overestimate your sewing skills
Another current issue, that often justifies low prices, is slight imperfections, or fit issues. Differently from the hopeless smell problem, mends are doable. The catch is when will you make time to squeeze them into your routine. The garments you buy will probably be left aside, waiting for weeks, if not years, for you to tailor them to perfection. Again, please be realistic, and don't bite more than you can chew. It’s better to skip a purchase than to deal with the overhanging stress cloud around the fix, or worse, wear something you know feels weird (not in the good sense of weird).
Oh Gabi, weren't you all about repair therapy, reloving, etc? Yes, and that's why I beg you to listen to my advice. No one's mend pile is as large as mine. Sewing takes time. Our clothes get ruined every day. My IG will soon be filled with how I am dealing with my forever-growing to-repair bag
Thrift Crawl
Experience is a word because skills that you lived through are processed differently than the ones you’ve read about. You’ll make mistakes. You’ll overpay. You’ll buy random junk. Nonetheless, one day, you’ll feel like you got a hang of it. Exploring multiple stops will give you a nice feel of what to expect, and what’s to come. Here are some of my favorite spots recently:
I'm considering organizing an LA Thrift Crawl, so let me know if you're interested in joining.
Have fun!
Don't hesitate to call me or drop a comment below.
The second-hand market is ginormous so save your energy and focus on stores that offer a collection of items that match your style and budget. Keep in mind that there may be a trade-off between the two. Unlike malls, stores are scattered, so you may not have the chance to visit as many shops as you would when shopping retail.
Don't be afraid to give thrifting a first, second, or third try. Unless, of course, what's holding you back are the bad energies of past wearers. Once in a while, I catch myself wondering if I am wearing clothes that someone died in. This, my friend, I can't help you with. I think it’s a risk worth taking.
Love,
Gabi
Brilliant post! #8 hit home for me… we should compare mend piles someday ;)